It’s been such a long time…

•December 10, 2009 • Leave a Comment

The past 4 months have flown by.  We’ve traveled all over Kansai and still find more and more to experience:  from Osaka (Universal Studios) to Nara (where deer roam free because they are believed to be gods) to Ise (the holiest place in all of Japan).  We’ve traveled everywhere…but it seems Japan just keeps getting bigger and bigger.  And my students keep surprising me.  Just yesterday one of my older students (in her 80s) explained to me that the story of Beauty and the Beast was actually based off of her and her husband’s love story.  She also pretended she was a chinese cabbage covered in snow…it’s hard to explain.  So I have some very…kooky students and it makes me laugh every time.  This same lady also asked me if I was related to Hitler because I’m German.  So…yeah.  There’s also been a lot going on at the office:  observations by Japanese staff, progress reports, Halloween and Christmas activities.  It’s hard to remember when one week starts and another begins because it all meshes together.  What sticks out though is the numerous outings with students and enjoying the fall colors (which are still existent!).  Pictures can say more than I can right now, so I’ll share them with you.  But, before this ends I have a thought of the day…if you will:

I recently came across a modern painting of fish with bold colors and thick brushstrokes.  This quote also appeared on the painting (in Japanese; my co-worker Naomi helped translate it):  “All fish live in water.  This place becomes their world and they believe they are independent from anything else.  What they forget is that they are only a part.  Their world depends on the rest of nature.”  I found this quote particularly striking because it reminded me of how easily exchangeable “humans” and “fish” are.  How our “world” seems to be governed by us without any thought of how dependent we are on others or other parts of nature.  The second thought was how, especially Americans, allow the “importance” of independency to cloud how we view the world.  What I’ve gleaned in my short time here is that Japanese view the world and all of nature as a circle.  Each species is but one part of that circle; whereas Western thinking is more of a pyramid, more hierarchical.  This circular way of thinking is very much a part of Buddhism and Shintoism…and Japanese culture.  Imagine, there’s 127, 704,000 people who live in Japan.  I alone am surrounded by 300,000 people and it’s considered the countryside.  So, it’s hard to forget how dependency or maybe, the cooperation of everyone is important.  From recycling properly (there’s 8 different categories of recycling in Tsu and typically only one day per month to recycle one category…so, it takes some getting used to) to following social norms so that Japan runs smoother and more efficiently.  It’s a lifestyle to some extent because there’s no other choice.  Whereas I think about the openness of America and how it’s geography gets at something much deeper…how easy it is for us to avoid needing people and creating our own “worlds”.   We forget about what connects us and how our existence rests on those relationships.  It’s much easier to seclude oneself and be “independent”.  Naomi also emphasized that, in the quote, the fish rejoiced in the freedom of being independent.  However, it was a false sense of freedom because there must be dependency to go on living.  Overall, Naomi told me that there must be a balance between the two to live harmoniously:  dependency and independency.  It’s a way of thinking that has infused the Japanese culture and lifestyle.  It’s also something I’m still trying to understand.

Thanks for reading this.  I know it’s not much, and so I hope to add more pictures before Christmas.  Happy Holidays everyone!

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It’s Been How Long?

•September 12, 2009 • Leave a Comment

As of yesterday, I’ve been in Japan for exactly two months.  I can’t believe how fast everything is going. 

Our last big vacation was for Obon (August 14-16).  Obon is the Japanese holiday when families get together and remember their ancestors.  However, since I do not have any Japanese ancestors buried in Japan and coincidentally enough, neither do Mike and Jeff…we went to Takihara.  Takihara is the equivalent of Henderson.  It’s small, country, everyone knows one another, and if you tell city people about it they have no idea where it is.  It was great.  Mike, Jeff, and I took a train just over an hour away to where the sidewalk ends.  We got away from the city and enjoyed the mountains, clear blue rivers, and clean air.  My favorite part was when we found a swimming hole in the river (which our boss specifically told us not to swim in because of the current) where we swam all day and soaked in the sun’s rays. My most embarrassing moment in Takihara happened when Jeff and I went to a cafe to eat breakfast.  The place was extremely old and stuff was all over the place.  The owner was an old Japanese woman who was thrilled to have foreigners.  Jeff had to translate for me, and I just smiled.  There were only older people in the cafe…the other inhabitant being a praying mantis on the ceiling directly above us.  I only noticed it after sipping some coffee and noticing a slight flash of green above me.  Yup, never seen one of those in person before.  Well, amidst the dust and stuff all about there was a Karaoke machine.  The owner begged us to sing even though Jeff and I repeatedly said we could not.  After shoving microphones into our hands she picked out an English song–White Christmas.  The music started, the old people all turned to watch us, and Jeff mumbled while I attempted to sing.  The owner’s face was all aglow even though it was probably the worst singing in all of history.  Because Jeff was mumbling an old Japanese man snatched the microphone from Jeff and accompanied me.  He actually sounded just like Bing.  It’s a strange gift all Japanese people have–able to sing Karaoke perfectly.  And I was absolutely pathetic.  It was such a surreal feeling to be singing White Christmas on the hottest day of summer for a group of Japanese people.  We got out of there as fast as possible before they made us sing more.  :)   In Takihara we also visited some shrines, biked everywhere we could, and enjoyed the scenery.

We returned to Tsu on Sunday and at 12:01 a.m. I opened my birthday cards and gifts.  Jeff had stashed them away somewhere so I couldn’t open them early…regrettably.  My college roommates sent a package with confetti, a princess hat, silverware (for incase I got sick of using chopsticks), and a pillow.  Thanks girls!!!  Mike and Jeff sang Happy Birthday and then I went to bed.  The next day my friend Yoshiko invited me over to her house.  Low and behold she had spent the entire morning cooking Japanese delicacies.  I couldn’t believe it.  She also bought a birthday cake and a Yukata (summer kimono).  I was completely speechless.  Really.  I couldn’t believe that she did all of that for me and only after knowing me for about a month!  I wore the Yukata all day, and I definitely freaked out some Japanese people.  My elementary student, Arisa, made me a bracelet that looks like it was made out of lucky charms whereas one of my Japanese businessmen gave me a cactus.  It was kind of funny getting a cactus–I don’t know if that means anything but it was the same guy whose first question was whether I was single.  After answering I threw the question back at him and he sternly responded that he was a married man…and a father too!  I found it pretty hilarious.  Anyhow, I really can’t believe how generous the Japanese are. 

The following weekend Jeff’s Japanese friends from Tokyo visited– Mika, Mei, and Yuki.  We went sightseeing in Ise…which isn’t too far away from here.  We saw the Ise shrine, a famous shrine of two rocks bound by rope to symbolize marriage, and an old shopping area where there are Edo period buildings (the kind you think of from movies).  We ate akafukugori which is shaved ice with green tea flavoring, mochi (a rice dessert), and sweet bean paste.  It may not sound good, but it’s delicious.  I went back to Ise the next weekend just to eat it again–it’s a seasonal dessert.  We also went to Saty (the Tsu mall) to do purikura (Japanese photo booth).  It was a lot of fun but I look really creepy.  Why?  Since Japanese people have small eyes the purikura enhances them…and in my case, makes me look like an alien.  Check it out in the pictures above.  :)   But, really, purikura is amazing because if you look horrible the photobooth still makes you look like a model.  Overall, we had a lot fo fun the entire weekend, and I hope to go to Tokyo soon to visit Mei, Mika, and Yuki. 

Otherwise, my regular routine is working Monday-Friday and every other Saturday.  Every Monday I visit my friend Yoshiko at her house where we eat lunch together and talk for a few hours.  She’s a fascinating woman who loves to show me pictures and share her culture.  Yoshiko is trained in the art of kimonos.  What does that mean?  Well, she gets people ready for special events by dressing them in the traditional kimono, hair, makeup, and etc.  Last week she showed me what kimono she wore for her wedding and pulled out every other one she had in her house to show me.  The kimonos were so beautiful and we spent a good amount of time folding them and putting them neatly back into place.  By the way, while I teach Yoshiko English she teaches me Japanese.  Now, I have a few words under my belt.  I can also order at a restaurant…although I still can’t read…which is a working progress. 

Teaching is going well.  Sometimes it’s a hit or a miss trying to figure out what topics to bring to class (it’s a conversation school).  So, I’m still trying to get the hang of teaching.  Although, this week some of my students told me how much they enjoy my class which makes me think I’m doing something right.  It was really cute last week in my elementary class because when I walked into the classroom the girls were playing hide and go seek.  So, I played along.  When they jumped out of there hiding places they held up signs which had English questions on them:  “What are your hobbies?” and “What did you do today?”  They were questions they couldn’t quite say in English so they got the signs from the Japanese staff to ask me.  It was completely adorable and these elementary students (Arisa and Moe) continue to find new ways to communicate with me.  Their curiosity is so refreshing.  I have another class of four old ladies who like to sabotage me so that we don’t get to the book.  Instead, they ask me about s’mores, camping, tornadoes, and things that are foreign to Japan.  They are so interested in American culture and always surprise me by what they know.  In another class, with Hiro (Buddha and beer lover) and Akemi (a grandmother), Hiro is always saying the most outrageous things.  He’s always throwing me for a loop.  Last week after class he lurched for a bottle on the table next to him, starts chugging it, and turns to me to say “It isn’t alcohol!”  I guess he used to get drunk before coming to class and finally was confronted by the staff.  This explains why he felt it was necessary to explain to me that he wasn’t drinking.  But immediately after saying that he continues:  “I usually put alcohol in bottles like this (green tea bottle) but not this time.”  I burst out laughing.  I seriously believe his goal is to make me laugh every week.  Every student has their own quirks about them, and I enjoy getting to know them better each week.  The students are the best part about this job, and I already find myself attached to them.  Tomorrow I’m having lunch with two of my students, 15 of their friends, Jeff, and Mike.  They made reservations at a really snazzy place and then we’re going to sing Karaoke.  Hopefully it goes better than last time.  :)

Oh, good news.  My parents and brother are coming to Japan in March!  All of my students want to meet them, and I can’t wait to show them around Japan!  I can’t believe they’re coming!!!  It’s going to be great to show them what my life is like here in Tsu and to meet the people who are so vital to my life here.

Anyhow, I could keep telling stories about my adventures and the people I meet…there are so many.  Again, thanks for listening, and I hope all is well.  For all the Hendersonites out there–I plan on having Japanese friends where the Sauerkraut shirt around Japan and send the pictures to my Uncle Tom.  So, you can expect a number of Japanese people displaying Henderson pride.  Go Tigers! 

Friends and family, thank you so much for the letters, gifts, and warm wishes!  It’s so nice to hear from you and hear about the old US of A.  I’ll get back to you soon!

Much love!

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Hello Family & Friends!

•July 26, 2009 • 1 Comment

Where to begin?

I arrived in Chubu Airport in Nagoya, Japan on Friday, July 11th despite everything working against me:  a ruthless mutant strand of mono, an ear and bladder infection, no Work VISA, lost luggage, and an apartment infested with bed bugs.  Welcome to Japan?  It truly seemed as if I was working against all odds. 

My fellow ESL teacher and co-worker, Jeff Schwinghammer, happened to be on the same flight; however, we didn’t know that until after we landed.  Actually, I saw another white person boarding the airplane in Detroit and thought – “Is that Jeff?” – but decided against rushing up to a complete stranger.  After landing in Nagoya, one of the Japanese staff members, Naomi Yokota, met up with us.  Tragically, Mike Lambert did not arrive due to a delayed flight but arrived the next day.  Jeff, Naomi, and I took a ferry to our final destination:  TSU CITY.  Tsu is considered “the country.”  Although, Tsu’s population is roughly 300,000 people and is made up of newer buildings.  This is because Tsu was bombed by the U.S. in 1945.  The first few days I found myself suffocated by the narrow streets, buildings built right next to the other, and the lack of vegetation.  The lack of openness is, in itself, a culture shock–let alone the language, culture, and social norms.  The simplest task is a challenge, but the current Orden Bunka Center (OBC) teachers have been a wonderful asset in helping with the transition.  Most of the time I just laugh at the cultural differences…here’s some good ones:

1.) The first Friday in Japan I conviced Mike and Jeff to see the new Harry Potter movie!  The best part was when the movie ended none of the Japanese people (the rest of the audience) left the theater.  No one moved or talked.  They stared at the screen intently, gazing at the credits while I fidgeted.  Jeff made some comment about how the Japanese can’t see in the dark as an explanation for the Japanese audience’s reaction.  Low and behold, the woman to Mike’s right could speak perfect English (which is a rare find in “the country” of  Japan).  It was hilarious.  Maybe you had to be there???

2.)  In America there are white people, in Tsu…well, here’s a common occurrence.  While walking or biking in Tsu people will actually stop their car to gawk.  Keep in mind, I am probally the first white person they have ever seen in person.  Little Japanese children ask their parents what am I?  So, in one respect, I am this mythical creature.  Or, as Jeff, Mike, and I like to call ourselves — gaijin (the foreigners).  Unfortunately, the Japanese also call us by this title so it isn’t that creative.

My first week was composed of training and observing classes.  However, this isn’t too exciting so I will share what happened outside of work.  We ate out the first week and had some great food (sushi, Indian curry, and other Japanese food).  The owners of the restaurants were delighted to have English sensei’s eating at their establishments, and we shared some great laughs at our attempts to communicate.  Another highlight was Harry Potter 6 — a bonding moment for Mike, Jeff, and I.  Also, trying to survive biking to and from work (1 mile each way) while the Japanese drivers run stoplights and do not pay attention to the road.  Actually, a number of OBC teachers have been hit by cars, and therefore it is one of my goals not to get hit. :)   The first weekend Daven and Megan (the current OBC teachers) took us to Nagoya (the third largest city in Japan) to go shopping because I did not have any of my luggage.  But, sadly, I am a giant and could not fit into anything.  Truly.  One of my students actually recoiled when I stood up because I am so tall.  I just laugh. 

The second weekend Mike, Jeff, and I went with Minori (Naomi and Tsuyoshi ‘s daughter) to Ise to watch a fireworks competition.  It was right on the river with mountains in the background.  Thousands of people were there to watch the most famous fireworks competition in Mie prefecture.  If you enjoy fireworks in the U.S. you’ll love Japanese fireworks — a million times better.  Many of the Japanese were wearing traditional kimonos and so there was a combination of old and new.  Beautiful patterns and colors moving through tiny streets.  The family in Ise that took us in made sure that we tried every Japanese food imaginable.  I ate octupus, squid, and watched them burn a huge turbine alive just for us to eat.  I tried everything.  My only complaint is how long it took me to actually chew the food before swallowing; other than that it tasted fine. 

The next day Mike, Jeff, and I took a bus to Kyoto where we spent one night and two days.  Once we arrived the three of us went to Fushimi Inari Shrine.  We climbed to the top of a mountain where I enjoyed a snow cone and a great view of Kyoto.  At one point during our hike we stopped at a place where passersby are supposed to stand before a rock on a podium, guess whether it is heavier than you think or not, and try lifting it.  If the rock is lighter than you think your wish will come true.  Well, my wish hasn’t come true yet…but the rock was much lighter than I anticipated.  The second day was devoted to temples, pavillions, and wandering through Kyoto’s train station.  At Kinkakuji (The Golden Pavillion) we took the cliche picture in front of the pavillion and pond.  It was wonderful.  Jeff, Mike, and I shared a lot of laughs during this adventure.  One great moment which cannot be forgotten was when the three of us were eating out at an Okonomiyaki restaurant.  It was a quaint little place, a family business.  At one point in the meal Mike did the worst thing in history — he dropped one of his chopsticks.  What to do?  He couldn’t possibly eat with only one chopstick, so he did what any person would – ask for another set.  However, Mike could not remember the Japanese word for “dropped” and in broken Japanese said hachi (chopstick) while pointing at the ground.  Our waitress who was probably in her late 60s responded before he had finished with a “hai hai” (yeah, yeah) in a low, man-like, smoker’s voice.  Maybe you had to be there, but we couldn’t stop laughing.

After returning to Tsu, I prepared for my next big journey and my first big adventure alone in Asia:  Seoul, South Korea.  The next morning I found myself taking a ferry, airplane, train, and finally the subway to the Japanese Embassy.  Coincedentally enough the entire building was gone.  Yes, it was a construction site.  Looking to my right I saw a security who looked Japanese and approached.  I asked him where the Japanese Embassy was, and he responded by laughing in face – “Why do you want to go there!?  You’re not Japanese!”  Well, obviously.   After saying “Work VISA” he complied and pointed me in the right direction.  It took a full two hours to get to the Japanese Embassy but only 5 minutes to actually file for a Work VISA.  But, after that obstacle behind me I sought out what I had been looking forward to all day:  a much needed bubble bath, eating chocolate, and watching movies at my hotel.

The next morning I woke up ungodly early to pick up my Work VISA at the Japanese Embassy and to tour the city.  My first stop was Unhyungung where I explored the small palace and had an old lady muttering at me in Korean about what I can only assume was the solar eclipse.  She kept pointing at the sky, and I nodded profusely in response. 

My next stop was the most famous palace of all:  Changdeokgung.  Just making it in the knick of time, I joined the English tour of the palace.  It felt so strange to be around other English speakers.  But, it was wonderful to actually understand the background of this palace.  Changdeokgung was the palace where the Korean royalty lived.  There were beautiful buildings (and the one with the blue roof symbolized the King’s quarters), extensive gardens, and a rich history.  The best part was when our Korean tour guide would ask us questions.  For instance, here is a wonderful story:

Tour Guide:  “Do you know what that was used for?”  Pointing at a large stone bowl situated outside of the palace and obviously used for a fire.

Random Tourist:  “Ohh, ooh!  It was used for holding ashes!”

Tour Guide:  “Uhhhhh….mmmmmm…..uhhhh…No.  It was used for (speaking slowly) ffff—iiii–rrr–ee.  Do you know what fire is?  It burns.  Fires burn.  Do you understand what fire is?”  All of the English speakers stared blankly at her.  Crickets chirp in the background, and I alone break the silence by laughing.  It was perfect.  There were so many moments where she asked us if we understood or whether we knew what colorful meant.  Extremely entertaining.

Actually, I met a boy from New Prague, MN on that tour.  I also ate breakfast with an elderly couple from Northfield, MN.  I never knew Seoul was the hotspot for Minnesotans.

Finally, my last stop:  Jongmyo Roayl Ancestral Shrine.  I spent a good four or five hours wondering through the shrines and extensive gardens.  This place is known for housing the spirit tablets (a symbol of the deceased) of the past Kings and Queens of Korea.  After walking for a good, well, a really long time I decided to sit in the shade and read The Red Tent.  Only moments after opening the book an old, Korean man greeted me and asked to sit next to me on the bench.  I thought for sure that he was going to propose marriage since his opening line was: “Do you know what a bachelor is?”  Thankfully, he did not propose.  Instead, he told me about his life.  The man next to him, his friend, worked up the courage to say hello in English.  I spoke with him for only a few minutes.  He disclosed that he learned English in America where he trained in the Army and then fought in the Korean War.  He thanked me profusely with tears in his eyes because, as he said, he had not spoken English in fifty years, and it meant so much to him that I listened to his story.  So, I met some really interesting people on my journey.

The next day I returned home and ever since I’ve been teaching English.  The first week we taught half of the class, the second week we taught the entire class with an observer (the past teachers), and this past week I taught for the first time completely alone.  The past teachers left last week, and so it’s only been Jeff, Mike, and I.  We’re all in one apartment since the other side is still infested with bed bugs.  But, don’t worry.  The exterminators came and left.  I get to move in tomorrow.  No more living out of a suitcase!

And I love my students.  My youngest student, Miho, is 6 years old and extraordinarily cute; whereas my oldest student is in his late 80s and loves Buddha and beer.  I have a range of different students in age, personality, learning curves, and interests.  Where some are only interested in talking about romantic interests and movies; others want to discuss how Japan is changing politically, culturally, and in ways that have not been seen since WWII.  It’s truly fascinating to gain their perspectives on Japan and the world. 

Many of them have already taken me out to eat as a welcome to Japan, and next week a couple are taking me out for my birthday.  The best part of this job is that I get paid to get to know people.  I love it. 

There is so much more to say…but for now, that’s been the past month for me. 

One last thing.  Gotemba is the beach in Tsu.  Last night we went to the Tsu fireworks and enjoyed trying to squeeze through the crowds of people.  We had a good time. 

Thanks for reading this.  I hope you’re doing well and enjoying the summer!  Please write me, and let me know what’s going on in your life!  My address is:  Nicole Bach, Orden Bunka Center, 21-4 Higashi Marunouchi, Tsu City, Mie, 514-0028, JAPAN. 

Over and out.

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